Ierland – Gerard Mercator / Jodocus Hondius, 1609

“Irlandiae Regnum,” copper engravings made by Gerard Mercator in 1595 and published by Jodocus Hondius as part of the “Atlas” in 1609. (Two-sheet map, North and South.) Verso French text. With original hand colouring. Size (plate mark): 34,5 x 47,5 cm (each).

The verso sides of both sheets describe the country and its history:

“Ulster

Before presenting the detailed description of Ireland, I considered it necessary to first propose a general division. Ireland is divided into five parts or provinces: Leinster, which is closest to England in the east; Connacht, which lies to the west; Ulster, in the north; and Munster, in the south. The fifth region is called Meath, located in the center of the island and surrounded by the other four provinces.

Each of these five provinces contains several notable territories. In Leinster, we find regions such as Fingall, Offaly, Laois, Ossory, and Ormond. In Meath, there are the territories of Slane, Fourie, and Delvin. Connacht includes Clare, while Ulster encompasses Uriel, Antrim, Lecale, and Tyrconnell. Munster includes Tipperary, Kerry, Desmond, Thomond, and several others.

It should be noted that Ireland is naturally divided into two parts: the native Irish and the Anglo-Irish settlers, often collectively referred to as the English Province. The Anglo-Irish territories are governed by English laws and customs, while the native Irish adhere to their own traditions. However, following repeated wars and English victories, the native Irish have largely been subdued, and the Anglo-Irish have established themselves more firmly in the land.

At various times, conflicts arose between the Anglo-Irish and the subdued native Irish, leading the English to refer to this entire territory as the English Province. Most of Leinster and Meath, as well as part of Ulster (known as Uriel), fell under this classification. However, the northernmost part of Leinster, close to Dublin, was renamed Meath.

Gerardus Mercator divided these provinces into four sections, beginning with Ulster, Meath, and parts of Leinster. We will describe these regions as accurately as possible, maintaining the order in which they were historically inhabited. Ulster was the first area settled by the Irish, followed by the Scots (whom the Irish called Gaels), and then by the Britons of Wales. The island of Man also fell within the scope of this province.

The land is vast and fertile, well-suited for agriculture, and is rich in rivers and lakes that enhance its beauty and productivity. However, despite its natural advantages, Ulster was among the last regions to fully accept English governance. The Irish inhabitants here were known for their strong resistance, and many of them lived in exile after their lands were taken. Hugh Lacy, an English nobleman, sought to establish control over the region but was ultimately expelled. The title of Prince of Ulster was later granted to Mortimer, and subsequently to Richard Duke of York, father of King Edward IV. The Irish nobility, particularly the O’Neill clan, remained powerful in Ulster for many centuries.

Ulster is characterized by numerous lakes, the most famous being Lough Erne, known for its abundance of salmon. The lakes are fed by various rivers, which the ancient geographer Ptolemy described as abundant and fertile. Among these, the Lough Foyle stands out as particularly significant. The waters here teem with fish, and the surrounding lands are shaded by forests and inhabited by the native Irish.

The Lough Neagh, or The Bay of Knockfergus, was well known to the Irish and English alike. The waters of this lake were reputed to have healing properties. Another notable waterway is the River Bann, which divides the region and flows into the sea.

In the year 1566, Edward Randolph led a campaign to capture the stronghold of Derry, but he was killed in the battle. The O’Neills, the ruling family in the region, resisted fiercely but eventually lost control to the English. The Roghbodga hills, located beyond Lough Swilly, became a strategic point of contention between the Irish and the English forces.

In the northernmost part of the island, the Cap Boreg is recorded, which the English now call Rame’s Head. Another important landmark is Helens Head, named after a noblewoman associated with the conquest of the region.

The natural landscape of Ulster is rugged, with cliffs and remote islands. The island of Eilean Frugardoy, or Purgatory of St. Patrick, is believed to be a place of pilgrimage, where the Irish traditionally sought penance for their sins. Some sources claim that St. Brendan also visited this place, adding to its mystical significance.

The ancient inhabitants of Ulster included not only the Irish but also the Scots, who migrated from the northern parts of England and settled in the region. The province was long divided between Gaelic traditions and English rule. The English established their presence by appointing bishops and archbishops to oversee religious matters, while the native Irish continued to follow their own cultural customs.

Despite centuries of conflict and resistance, Ulster remained a vital and distinct part of Ireland, its rich landscape and history shaping the identity of its people.

Connacht

Connacht is the second province of Ireland and is called “Connachtie” by some, “Connagh” by the English, and “Connaghty” by the Irish. It extends to the west, bordered by the Shannon River, the Bann, and the ocean. In ancient times, Ptolemy recorded that the Auteri and Nagnatae inhabited this entire region. Since there is a strong resemblance between the names “Nagnatae” and “Connaghty,” some believe that Connacht derives from the Nagnatae or that the latter name was altered.

If we look at the port of “Nagnate” mentioned by Ptolemy, which later gave its name to the entire region, we find that this harbor is called “Cuon” in the local language. When combined with “Nagnate,” it closely resembles “Connaghty.” The land is generally fertile and beautiful in some areas, although parts are humid and covered with soft marshlands, which the Irish call “bogs.” Much of the island is rugged and dangerous, but Connacht is covered with forests and has abundant pastures.

The coastline is open, with deep bays and navigable canals, which invite settlement. However, despite its natural richness, Connacht remained relatively undeveloped due to frequent invasions. Many Irish rulers preferred war over agriculture. Irish histories mention that Turlogh O’Connor once ruled Connacht and commanded it with authority. He was recognized as “High King of Ireland.” His main fortress was Cathal and Brienna, located at the entrance of the Anglo-Norman territories. The English commander in the region, known as “Rotheric,” opposed him, but he failed to drive him out.

Later, the English attacked Connacht, believing it would be an easy conquest. William FitzAdelm, their commander, established Bourg (also known as Bourk in Irish). Gilbert de Clare and Comte de Gloucester, along with William de Bermingham, were among the first English nobles to settle the region. Over time, Connacht was governed by the O’Flaherty clan, and later by the descendants of Richard de Bourg, commonly called the Earls of Ulster. The de Burghs ruled most of Connacht but lost power when their lands were confiscated by the English king.

Today, Connacht is divided into several counties:

• Clare
• Leitrim
• Galway
• Roscommon
• Mayo
• Sligo

Several noble families, such as Athenry and de Clare, hold lands here. Galway, the province’s principal city, is a flourishing trading center, renowned for its commerce with Spain and France. Foreign merchants frequently visit the region, contributing to its prosperity.

The Irish, however, remain attached to their old traditions, and while some have integrated with the English, others continue to resist foreign rule.

Meath

Meath is the third province of Ireland, called Mide by the Irish and Methe by the English. It may have been named for its central position, as it lies in the middle of the island. Some believe the name derives from “Labore de Province,” meaning “the labor of the province,” suggesting that it was historically important for governance.

The etymology of Meath is uncertain, but according to Richard Stanyhurst, it originated when three Germanic brothers divided Ireland into separate provinces, each governing a distinct region. Meath was one of these territories.

Geographically, Meath is bordered by the Shannon River and extends as far as Connacht. It is a fertile land, rich in pastures, producing livestock, butter, and cheese. The population is concentrated in well-established towns with castles, and the peace of the region is generally maintained.

Meath has historically been the seat of Irish monarchy. The High Kings of Ireland held court here, and the region was home to the famous Royal Table, where Irish, English, and Anglo-Norman lords gathered for important meetings.

One of the most notable rulers of Meath was Hugh Lacy, who was granted dominion over the land by King Henry II of England. He built Trim Castle, which his sons inherited. His grandson, Hugh Lacy of Ulster, expanded the family’s influence, but after his death, his lands were divided among his daughters, Marguerite and Mathilde. Part of Meath then fell under the control of the Mortimer family, later linked to the English crown.

Meath’s major cities include:

• Trim
• Mullingar
• Fore
• Duleek
• Navan
• Ardee
• Scrine

Trim is the most significant city, and historically, it was the seat of Lacies’ barony. The Shannon River separates Meath from Connacht, and nearby are the famous lands of Sene and Limerick. The Irish call Limerick Loumneagh, while the English refer to it as Limerike.

The rivers of Meath are famous for their fish, particularly trout and salmon. The Boyne River flows through the province and is historically significant, as it was the site of many battles.”

Price: Euro 1.650,- (two maps)